![]() ![]() Last time I was there, we had stars and a thunderstorm at the same time. Take that left, park in the little lot, and shoot from that meadow for a cool view. As you drive to the base of the tower, there is one road to the left.Shooting from there gives you an awesome view of the North Star over the tower. As you come in, there will be a parking lot to the left.Ripe for a 70-200mm lens for details and long star trails. From just outside the park, before the hotel/trading post-that curve in the road gives you a nice, long shot at the open sky with the tower in the middle.It’s a rather small property that is circular. MeganĪ: Devils Tower is actually really easy to shoot. Any suggestions for where to shoot? I’m looking at using my Genie Mini, doing time-lapse, panos or some star trails (with as little light pollution as possible) … I’m not picky, and will see what the moment dictates. Per TPE, the moonrise time will provide a window of dark sky. Q: I will be traveling to Devils Tower National Monument in Wyoming. I’ve been using since last year not only because it can help to ease the focusing process in general, but also because my 45-year-old eyes appreciate the assist in focusing on the camera’s LCD! A focusable loupe does just that.įor the Nikon D750 (awesome night camera, BTW!), the HoodMan Compact Hoodloupe is an excellent choice, in terms of both quality and being the right size for the D750, or any of the very many other cameras with similar-size LCDs (i.e., 3.2 inches). S.G.Ī: A loupe can be an excellent accessory for helping to focus at night. Q: I’m thinking of buying a loupe to use with Live View focusing on my Nikon D750. (You can learn more about that technique in our CreativeLive course.) On the other hand, when the Milky Way core shoots straight into the air from the horizon, you can capture the core with one exposure and be creative with where it intersects with the foreground.īy the way … it’s Milky Way season right now. That way you can encompass the whole arc with minimal distortion. It is best achieved by creating a panorama of four to eight stitched images. The Milky Way arc is really a camera effect caused by including this massive astronomical structure arching across the sky in one photograph. Which orientation is preferred for photography? Totally your choice. The best time to see and photograph the long arc of the Milky Way is from late April to July, on nights with little to no moon. By August, it is high overhead by the time the sky gets dark. in June, and earlier and earlier in the night through the summer. We can see the Milky Way all year, but the galactic core, or brightest part of the Milky Way, breaches the horizon at night during those months. In the Northern Hemisphere the Milky Way season officially begins in April and goes until September. The Milky Way is an amazing thing to witness and capture, and it inspires creativity! How do I know if the Milky Way will be an arch or in a vertical position? Is it in both positions at different times throughout the night? - Susan ManleyĪ. You could, however, use the mount to create great star points with a long exposure at a low ISO, and then in post-production layer that with a separate, sharp exposure of the foreground. But if you were to try to include any Earth-based foreground element, that would blur. Martha HaleĪ: You are absolutely correct! Motorized mounts are excellent for astrophotography, such as for shooting planets, deep-space objects or even ultrahigh-detail shots of the moon. It appears that if you include any foreground, the movement of the camera would blur it. In the context of what we shoot with you guys (astro-landscape), that would not really ever be needed, right? In trying to figure out what that is used for, it seemed to be more for longer exposures of the sky alone, to get star points versus trails. ![]() I was curious about a motorized mount for night photography, such as the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer. I’m planning on holding a couple of night portrait workshops to teach this technique. Finally, I work all those elements into a composition I like. Third, I test for the Pixelstick exposure. Second, I set up each flash to expose as I prefer. You can do it in either order, but I prefer the order I use.įirst, I meter the ambient exposure, and then drop it by a stop. Can you tell me how you used the Pixelstick with speedlights ? When do the lights fire, before or after you draw with the Pixelstick? - Alison CarlinoĪ: The technique you’re asking about is a long exposure where I use the flash first, ask the model to stand still, and then run behind with the Pixelstick while the shutter is open. ![]()
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